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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.